|[Reflex Game Parts]|
The Tools: If you're thnking about making something like this, you'll need the following:
- Press Break
- Sheet Metal Shears
- Heavy-Duty Circle Cutter
- Sheet Metal Nibbler (if fancyness is desired)
- Diagonal Pliers (or some other type of wire cutter)
- Rivet Gun (with some rivets)
- Heat Gun (with some heat shrink)
- Soldering Gun (with some solder)
- Shot Gun (with some...just kidding, exhausting my gun theme)
- Find heat gun and black shrink
- Slide shrink down the wires around the button bottoms as pictured where the wire is exposed
- Heat shrink with heat gun until it does its thing (shrinks onto the wires). Do not melt things
- Find a soldering iron (I prefer ones that glow orange from Canadian tire, it's a lot better/hotter then the wireless ones)
- Find Solder (I used lead-free)
- Find wet sponge (a real one like what comes with this, not one of those plastic ones that will melt and attach itself to your gun when it gets hot)
- Insert a wire, resisters, light, chip, or other parts onto the boards front at it's desired length (the LEDs have to pop through the metal case, so make sure they stick off the board evenly)
- Turn the board around and take a small amount of solider to attach the piece to the board
- Dab soldering gun off the sponge to keep it clean
- If there are long bits hanging off the back, cut them with a wire cutter
- Repeat starting at step 7 until all parts installed
- Tada, board!
|[Button Holder Top]|
|[Button Holder Bottom]|
- Find metal cylinder chunk that may or may not be kinda dirty/rusty looking
- Install metal chunk (which is going to be the button holder) in the lathe
- Perform a facing to the top (and bottom if you like) with the help of our cross-slide by shaving off the first few layers on the front and bottom of what I'm calling the chunk. This makes the face clean and shinny
- Install the small drill bit on the taper that's the width of the push button
- Put a drop of oil on the tip of the drill bit every time you change it, as it gets hot
- Set up measurements for the middle of the cylinder
- Drilling hole through the center of the cylinder. This is where the top hole comes from as seen in the first button holder pic
- Repeat drilling increasing the size of the drill bit each time until the hole is the desired circumference (the button should fit into it). Instead of going directly through the chunk each time, only go up to the top, leaving half the width of the button top (so you can press the button when it's in the holder). This can be seen in the second button holder pic (there's a smaller hole in a bigger hole). As you can imagine, the last drill bit was quite large
- Set up the measurements for the outside thickness of the button holder
- You cannot remove cm at a time (unless you want to break something) so if the chunk is a lot thicker you have to shave off about a mm at a time
- Set the lathe up the same way you did a facing but this time slide the chunk back and forth via a handwheel on the carriage to shave off a small amount of metal around the entire surface. Make sure the top of the buttons will fit next to each other once they are in their casing
- The last layer should take off a very small amount of metal, giving it a smooth appearance as seen on the images here
- We now have a shiny metal cylinder. To make the edges less sharp shave off several layers off the edges to create a rounded edge
- Setup measurements for the hole slightly smaller (not even a mm) then the large holes in the sheet metal).
- Perform step 9-12 again but this time leave a portion of the top alone. Perform this step until the button holder can sit in the hole in the case (known by the measurements mentioned in 14), it should not fall through it.
- Sweep up hundreds of metal spirals
- Tada, button holder!
- Spray paint a piece of sheet metal blue on one side
- Find something pointy
- Mark the measurements where the bends and holes for the LEDs should go with a sharp metal tool. You can see the blue paint and the markings I've made in the pic.
- Find a drill with a bit slightly larger then a LED
- Drill holes as marked in step 3
- Bend the sheet with a press break, making sure to bend things in the right order or it will not fit together
- Fasten battery holder with rivets with the help of a rivet gun (what a handy little tool)
The Finished Product: For some reason, I don't have a picture of that. But to finish, perform the following:
- Attach button holders into case
- Attach buttons into button holders
- Attached the board into the case, making sure the LEDs come out through the case. You may need to use spacers to get the board in the case at the desired width away from the case
- Tada, Game!
This is me, take it or leave it NL.